HI DARLINGS! I thought I would do something different today and if you like it I will do more of this. I have a ZARA double-breasted sweater that I love and since I recently got some great sweater knits from MOOD FABRICS ( I posted the haul on my IG HERE) I decided I would rub off the sweater to make a pattern and show you some of the steps. I also then decided that I wanted to make “FLOATING POCKETS” Have you ever seen a tailored jacket or coat that has patch pockets but no visible topstitching or stitching and seams on the inside of the pocket! You wonder how did they attach that pocket? Well, I am gonna show you. The term is actually “BLUFF POCKET” but since it looks like its just floating on your jacket I call it floating pocket, lol.
Another thing I thought I would share in this post is the inside of my sweater, I love finishing my garments but realized I never show that so I plan to share more often. My friend ERICA BUNKER and I started a new IG PAGE called SEW IT PRO where we will be sharing more advanced tips and techniques, books we love, other advanced sewists and more, go FOLLOW!
HERE is a link to my fabric.
RUBBING OFF MY ZARA SWEATER
This is my Zara sweater and I love it so much! I wanted to be able to make it in other fabrics so I created a pattern. First I laid it flat and used my weights to hold it in place and using the tip of my pencil I marked through the seams onto my paper.
After I get my initial shape I go back and measure key places like my shoulders, length etc. to make sure they match my new pattern.
I used the other front to lay over my pattern so I could mark my buttonholes and pocket placement.
I did the same thing for the back and sleeves.
MY FLOATING POCKET AND HOW-TO
(click picture to enlarge)
- I use an open foot and my zipper foot to sew my pocket on.
- Cut your pocket and two lining pieces 1.5″ shorter than your pocket.
- Stitch the top of your pocket and lining with right sides facing.
- Press your pocket and lining making sure to pull your lining to meet the bottom of the pocket. Press the top of the second lining piece down 1/2″
- Place your lining piece right sides facing over your pocket and lining piece.
- Stitch through all layers using 1/4″ seam allowance down the sides and bottom
- Press 1/2 seam allowance along the sides and bottom.
- Pin your pocket in place.
- Using an open presser foot zig zag the edges with a long zig zag stitch and barely catch the sides. This will keep your pocket in place while we stitch on the inside, this zag zag basting stitch will be removed.
- Close up view. I just barely catch the pocket.
- Working patiently and slowly you are going to stitch inside of the pocket, make sure to move all other fabric out of the way. This will take time so just go a bit at a time.
- I stitch 3/8″ of an inch following the pressed line, if you stitch too close to the initial 1/2″ seam allowance your pocket won’t look like its floating.
- Once the sides and bottom are sewn we are going to stitch that second lining down to make it nice and smooth when you put your hand in your pocket.
- Edhe stitch using your zipper foot.
- Remove the zig zag basting.
- Press and as you can see the pocket is fully finished on the inside and there are no visible side seams!
- This is the pocket turned out and as you can see all the seams are hidden!